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4.- ADVANCED
VOCABULARY IN CONTEXT: THE PORTEÑO SCENE IN ENGLISH
36 Hours in Buenos Aires
By Paola Singer
Published: January 31, 2010
Contemporary Argentine history is a roller coaster
of financial booms and cracks, set to gripping political soap operas. But
through all the highs and lows, one thing has remained constant: Buenos Aires’s graceful
elegance and cosmopolitan cool. This attractive city continues to draw food
lovers, design buffs and party people with its riotous night life,
fashion-forward styling and a favorable exchange rate. Even with the uncertain
economy, the creative energy and enterprising spirit of Porteños, as residents
are called, prevail — just look to the growing ranks of art spaces, boutiques,
restaurants and hotels.
Friday 4
p.m.
1) Urban Walls
Young offbeat artists are putting their stamp
on Buenos Aires.
Take to the streets of Palermo to see the
impressive mural outside Hollywood in Cambodia
(Thames 1885; 54-9-11-6289-6258; hollywoodincambodia.com.ar), a gallery devoted
to street art. For the full graffiti experience, book a tour with Graffitimundo
(graffitimundo.com), 75 pesos, or $20 at 3.72 pesos to the dollar, which
highlights up-and-coming neighborhoods like Villa Crespo, where rising names
like Pum Pum paint their whimsical creatures on abandoned walls. The design
scene is also booming. Check out Nobrand (Gorriti 5876; 54-11-4776-7288;
nobrand.com.ar), a store that reinvents Argentine items like mate gourds,
giving them a quirky, cartoonish look.
6 p.m.
2) Taste of England
Ties to the Old World
were broken long ago, but some traditions are in full swing. Sirop Folie
(Vicente Lopez 1661; 54-11-4813-5900; siroprestaurant.com), on a quaint alley
in the upscale neighborhood of Recoleta, serves a very British afternoon tea
that includes fresh scones, homemade marmalades, finger sandwiches, cakes and
fragrant blends by Tealosophy (70 pesos for two). Well-dressed families show up
after 5 p.m., filling the comfy, pastel-colored window banquettes. For
Asian-inspired tea, try the new Tea Connection (Avenida Cerviño 3550,
54-11-4807-5034; teaconnection.com.ar). Whatever you do, don’t skip this meal;
dinnertime is ages away.
9:30 p.m.
3) Jazz It Up
Live music is one of Buenos Aires’s top bills, and contemporary
jazz is stealing the spotlight thanks to a new generation of talented musicians
who developed their own style. Check out a live show at Thelonious Club
(Salguero 1884, first floor; 54-11-4829-1562; theloniousclub.com.ar), a lounge
with vintage black leather sofas, battered hardwood floors, and a back-lit bar.
Some of the acts are avant-garde. The composer Fernando Tarrés, for example,
incorporates video and computer-generated sounds into his new art-music project
Trespass. Others appeal to a broader audience, like Ricardo Cavalli, considered
by some to be the best saxophone player in the country.
11:30 p.m.
4) Midnight Meal
On weekend nights, Porteños take late-night
dining to the extreme. Mingle with stylish night owls at intimate Tegui (Costa Rica
5852; 54-11-5291-3333; tegui.com.ar), a glamorous addition to the city’s stable
of hidden restaurants. The entrance to this au courant spot in the outskirts of
Palermo is
camouflaged by a wall of graffiti — the work of the stencil virtuosos Vomito
Attack. Germán Martitegui, the chef, offers an ambitious, locally sourced menu
prepared in an open stainless-steel kitchen. Try the slow-cooked tenderloin
with poached egg and toasted manioc flour. Dinner about 200 to 240 pesos.
Saturday
10:30 a.m.
5) Say Om
Flow with the local fitness craze with an
energizing yoga class at Valle Tierra (Costa Rica
4562; 54-11-4833-6724; valletierra.com), a modern, airy studio in youthful Palermo Soho. After a
series of challenging warrior postures, ask for a hot stone massage (140
pesos). Then go for a leisurely stroll through El Rosedal — a romantic rose
garden inside the 400-acre Parque Tres de Febrero. Often overlooked, the garden
was recently spruced up with thousands of new roses, repaired pergolas and
paths. If the mood strikes, rent a paddle boat and ride around the surrounding
lake, crossed by an arched bridge.
2 p.m.
6) Chimichurri
Get your steak fix at Miranda (Costa Rica
5602; 54-11-4771-4255; parrillamiranda.com), a bustling new-generation parrilla
where the décor is cool and the staff is hip, but the food remains
traditionally no-frills. This loftlike industrial space manages to feel cozy
thanks to potted plants, wall textiles, wood accents and a steady stream of
film executives who work in nearby studios (the surrounding area is aptly named
Palermo Hollywood). Order classics like provoleta, a char-grilled,
herb-seasoned slice of thick cheese, and bife de chorizo, a juicy sirloin strip
steak (about 60 pesos for lunch). This timeless favorite comes with excellent
house-made fries and a side of chimichurri marinade.
5 p.m.
7) House of Xul
The painter, sculptor and writer Alejandro Xul
Solar is Argentina’s
answer to Paul Klee. Before his death in 1963, the artist selected 50 paintings
that were to be exhibited in the museum he envisioned, set up by his widow,
Micaela Cadenas, 30 years later. The Museo Xul Solar (Laprida 1212;
54-11-4824-3302; xulsolar.org.ar) has 86 works inside a modernized building
from the late 1800s. Glimpse a surreal world: reinvented tarot cards, a piano
with three rows of rainbow-colored keys and other fanciful inventions. Solar’s
former residence, scheduled to open for special viewings in the near future,
remains untouched on the top floor.
10 p.m.
8) Argentine Pasta
Historians estimate that about a million
Italians settled in Argentina
by the early 20th century, which probably explains why Buenos Aires has such delightful pastas and
gelati. Sottovoce (Libertador 1098; 54-11-4807-6691; sottovoceristorante.com.ar
is a classic family restaurant that always gets it right. The moment you sit
down, an attentive waiter brings a basket of breads and a plate of pâté and
marinated white beans. Most pastas are handmade. Pair them with any sauce: the
Sottovoce, made of tomato, basil, oregano, garlic, olive oil and Parmesan, is
delicately flavorful (about 95 pesos for dinner). For dessert, try the
delectable dulce de leche ice cream, or walk a few blocks to gelato galore at
Un’ Altra Volta. Good luck choosing among the 60 flavors (Quintana 502;
54-11-4783-4048; unaltravolta.com.ar).
1 a.m.
9) Burn The Floor
Tequila (Avenida Rafael Obligado Costanera and
La Pampa;
54-11-4781-6555), a night-life staple for nearly two decades, reopened in
October after a lengthy makeover. The intimate boîte is now decked in
boudoir-style red velvet curtains, studded leather walls, chandeliers and more
chandeliers. In the crowd you’ll find banker types, fashion models and the odd
hipster or vixen. The door policy hasn’t changed since back in the day, which
means “sorry” if you’re not on the list. There’s always haggling with
stern-faced bouncers, or getting table service for about 3,000 pesos. Who said
cavorting with the sexy Porteños was easy or cheap?
Sunday
Noon
10) Boutiquey Barrio
Cobbled San Telmo is known for old-school
tango shows, staid antiques shops and a Sunday street fair packed with vintage
finds. But there’s new life in this old barrio. Check out Zavaleta Lab (Venezuela 567;
54-11-4342-9293; zavaletalab.com), among the contemporary art galleries that
recently moved to the neighborhood. This Chelsea-like space, with iron pillars,
exposed brick ceilings and austere white walls, is where artists like León
Ferrari — winner of the Golden Lion at the 2007 Venice Biennale — exhibit their work. For a
last-minute fashion update, stop by Niño Bien (Avenida Belgrano 302;
54-11-4342-5599; ninobien.com.ar), a new boutique that stocks posh Argentine
brands like Maria Cher and La Martina and will introduce its own men and
women’s line later this year.
2 p.m.
11) Catch a Match
It would be a shame to leave soccer-obsessed Buenos Aires without watching archenemies River
Plate and Boca Juniors battle it out on the field. Even if you’re not a fan of
the sport, the crowd’s roaring passion is a riveting show. Don’t go solo
(unless you feel comfortable around boisterous South American fans); book a
seat through an established tour operator like Go Football (54-11-4816-2681;
gofootball.com.ar; about 300 pesos). Bilingual guides pick you up at the hotel,
stay with you during the game and teach you the local cheers.
If You Go
American is among the airlines that fly
nonstop to Buenos Aires from New York. A recent Web search showed
round-trip fares on American starting at $1,157 for travel in March. The 20-mile
taxi ride to the city center runs about 120 pesos, about $32.
The Argentine capital is filled with
well-appointed hotels where most staff members speak English.
Soon to open is Algodon
Mansion (Montevideo 1647; 54-11-3530-7777;
www.algodonmansion.com), a luxury 10-suite hotel in a renovated mansion in
Recoleta. It will have butler service, sheet and pillow menus, in-room DVD
libraries and bathrooms awash in Italian marble. Rooms start at $800.
Opened in 2008, Vitrum (Gorriti 5641;
54-11-4776-5030; www.vitrumhotel.com) in Palermo
Hollywood has a
colorful glass facade and spacious, retro-futuristic rooms. On the terrace is a
spa with an oversized Jacuzzi. Rooms from $224 (breakfast
included).
© 2010 by The New York Times Company
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